Specialty salts can transform everyday foods. To elevate the experience, add bold chili salt to a hearty winter stew, smoked salt to popcorn or ruby-colored wine salt to chocolate truffles. Flavored finishing salts surprise the tastebuds in ordinary dishes like oatmeal, desserts or hot cocoa. Used mindfully, gourmet salt reduces the need for excessive sodium and invites us to savor the extraordinary.

“I think salt is amazing and brings out the best in food—all those hidden flavors,” says Craig Cormack, a gourmet salt chef in Cape Town, South Africa. His career as a food artisan advanced in 2009 when he embraced specialty salts. “My personal collection is sitting at 232 naturally occurring salts from around the world,” adds Cormack, who favors unrefined regional varieties, but also enjoys bold options such as smoked Danish Viking salt for its ancient, bonfire-infused qualities.

Salts vary in texture, flavor and nuance based on their source and harvesting techniques, such as solar evaporation or hand-raking. Many contain trace minerals, adding depth to dishes, and when consumed in moderation, sea salt may benefit the body compared to refined salt.

Salt’s Good Side

Salt has a bad reputation for causing high blood pressure and other health conditions, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) states that more than 70 percent of dietary sodium comes from prepared and packaged foods, not from salt added at home. The FDA daily value for sodium is less than 2,300 milligrams per day, and using unrefined salts can be a healthier alternative to common table salt, which is demineralized and processed with anti-clumping agents. Celtic gray salt and other mineral-rich varieties contain naturally occurring, trace heavy metals, but also minerals like potassium, magnesium and calcium, which can help prevent the body from absorbing harmful metals like lead.

“We all need salt in moderation to live. The best way to ingest salt is to season your own food. Processed food has too much salt, and you can’t control your intake. Naturally made, mineral-rich salt is the best choice,” affirms Nancy Bruns, a seventh-generation salt maker at J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works, in Malden, West Virginia. She and her family produce rare, small-batch finishing salts harvested from the ancient Iapetus Ocean beneath the Appalachian Mountains.

Spanning the Salt Spectrum

Whether sourced from evaporated seawater (sea salt) or underground salt mines (rock salt), there is much to choose from. Sea salt comes in various colors, coarseness and complex flavors. Highly prized flake salt—fleur de sel from coastal France—is hand-harvested from evaporation ponds with clay bottoms and, with its delicate, paper-thin crystals, offers delicious nuances as a finishing salt. Celtic gray salt, sourced deeper within evaporation ponds, contains more moisture and minerals.

Himalayan pink salt, mined from salt beds formed from ancient seas approximately 600 million years ago, contains more than 80 minerals and has a rosy color due to the presence of iron oxide and magnesium. Black volcanic rock salt, also known as Himalayan black salt or kala namak, has a pungent, sulfuric quality that diminishes with heat during cooking and imparts an egg-like aroma and taste that can be useful in vegan recipes. The large, coarse grains of kosher salt traditionally used in Hebrew cuisine give food a robust, briny quality and satisfying texture.

Salt can be infused with herbs, spices, fruits and smoke from various woods to create a multitude of flavor qualities and moods. Bruns highlights her ramp-infused salt, which is combined with wild onions gathered during the Appalachian springtime. Charred oak from old bourbon barrels makes their smoked salt a favorite for grills and even chocolate desserts. Cormack spotlights the fine indulgence of Tartuflanghe brand truffle salt from Italy for an unforgettable mushroom risotto.

Bruns is grateful for the timeless spirit of salt. “I come to work on the same land where my ancestors made salt for over 150 years. I feel their presence, as if they are watching over my shoulder. That legacy and sense of stewardship is present every time I sprinkle salt on my food.”

Maya Whitman is a frequent writer for Natural Awakenings.

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